LIFE LESSONS (part two)
Monday, September 4
Pamplona to Cirauqui
35.94km/22.33mi (694.06km/431.27mi to Santiago de Compostela)
“Like clouds which obscure the mountain tops of vision, thoughts of fear and doubt (and judgement) obstruct the greater view.” - This Thing Called You, page 133
So on the way up to Alto de Perdón, a high ridge where wind turbines line the winding crest and there’s a famous series of metal cutout 2-D figures, walking becomes a tough slog. The path is nothing but a river of rocks cutting into a 6’ wide ravine; where navigating placement of each step is truly an ankle-saving measure.
As hard as it was for us two-legged peregrinos, it must’ve been an almost insurmountable challenge for someone using a 3-wheeled electric mobility scooter. Enter Dan! He is a man in his 60’s from Denmark, and paralyzed on his right side (arm and leg). Seeing him heading up the trail with a Danish flag proudly waving from the back of his seat, my first thought was one of inspiration. But my years of civil rights work has taught me to stay away from words that don’t recognize true equality among all of us. Dan was merely doing the Camino…as we all were. While I was panting for breath and taking 5-second stops, off he went up the hill.
Further on, Dan faced a shallow ravine in the path; ruts covered with rocks amidst streams of water cutting deep grooves where a gravel path should be. His scooter couldn’t cross it. So several of us stopped to help. We assisted Dan out of his cart and steadied him while another person maneuvered the lighter cart down and up the ravine to the other side. I had Dan’s arm over my shoulder while another man held his free hand, and we slowly walked him across that ravine. After about 20-30 minutes, seeing that others were arriving to that point in the path, I excused myself, as did two other men. I was conflicted as to leaving or staying. But I knew that a space for others to be of service has to be created…and so we left knowing Dan was in good hands.
“The best way to find yourself is in the service of others.” - Mahatma Gandhi
I can’t say that the thought of leaving had “safe passage” across my mind (a marker of whether there are issues that aren’t being dealt with or addressed…by me), but as I was breathing peace and clarity into my thoughts…he zoomed past me! Others had, in fact, stepped in and enabled Dan to continue his Camino.
Reaching Zariquiegui, a small village with an open tiendita (small food shop), I was so looking forward to a cold juice. Lo and behold…there was Dan; parked across the narrow road enjoying a bev and snack. We clasped hands and greeted each other with broad smiles (I believe part of his disability is that he couldn’t use his voice). I went on from that village and haven’t seen Dan since. I think of his ability to do the Camino. I wonder if it wouldn’t have been a little less challenging having a companion, instead of always relying on the kindness of fellow peregrinos.
Dan
Stepping away and letting others be of service, I’m confident that, as a whole, as a community, a family of pilgrims, we have assisted one of our own. And isn’t that a life lesson to take back home? From opening a door to one in need, to finding areas to deeply step into, being of service keeps me alive, grounded and happy. My shy inner child and eventual addict’s personality kept me from truly being engaged in this extremely personal way. Nowadays, it keeps me alive, grateful and humbly blessed. Truly blessed!
But, isn’t this what it’s all about? Dan wanted to do the Camino his way and put his faith into the deep, true knowing that, one way or another, he would do it. Mine is not to judge, assume, posit or compare. I support Dan and his Camino spirit, as I honor mine and everyone else’s. “Godt Camino, Dan!”
“You are to know that good keeps you in perfect activity, surrounds you with love and friendship, and brings the experience of joy to everything you do.” - This Thing Called ahoy, page 165
I continued up that hill, up to the wind turbines, and, finally, up to Alto de Perdón. Actually, this path is a lot like the challenging trails I do on the Trans-Catalina Trail back home; and a bit like the Bump ‘n Grind in the desert. (Glad I trained there!)
On the Trans Catalina Trail crest
I finally made it to the top of the ridge, after waddling like a duck up a 2’ wide rocky muddy stream disguised as a path. All the statues by artist Samuel Mencel Rodríguez that I’d previously seen in books and videos were there! Together they represent pilgrims across time walking towards Santiago de Compostela. You know, I wonder what it would be like seeing this without that sense of déja vu stemming from all the pictures, YouTube vids and guidebooks I used over the past year’s training. But in this day and age of traveling…isn’t that the same with so many of us?
From Mutual of Omaha’s “Wild Kingdom” on up to Rick Steves and Samantha Brown. Travel planning is now part of smart traveling. What we gain is awesome and strategic info. What we lose is the wonder of seeing everything with the wide-eyed wonder of a child’s first birthday party. So to counter this, I do walkabouts in parks, laneways, plazas and piazzas; sitting and watching, and spotting those little vignettes of romance and drama in the making. And, wow, have I truly learned to live fully in the world throughout my travels. And that life (my life) has rewarded me back with amazing experiences. I humbly say to the world, Spirit, and that shy inner child that is now used to my taking the lead in life’s adventures: Muchisimas Gracias!
Just another silly peregrino!
During long stretches of even gravel, open plains or sleepy one-road villages, I become aware of the blessings of being where I am. And I use these moments to vision, meditate and ask out loud questions that brought me to the Camino in the first place: “What would you (my inner spirit) have me do? How can I best be of service? And where? To whom?” And then I just listen to Spirit, my intuition, higher guidance and divine right order…without judgment. Listening. Stillness. Listening. And then recording what enters my thoughts no matter how unusual or out of the fray. This is what’s been knocking on my soul for a year now: the desire to set a large table with two settings…me and my inner spirit. And so I chose the Camino…a pretty huge table to sit at. (I’m enjoying the conversation.)
Eunate
Church at Puente La Reina
That afternoon, I pushed myself beyond the usual end stage village and went an additional 3 hours into the long, sunny and hot afternoon through another very rocky and hilly route to the charming and religious village of Cirauqui. (Note: I probably shouldn’t walk in the heat, sun and among the rocky inclines at 4pm. There’s a point where the body needs respect.)
There are rewards at the end of long days…and Cirauqui is one. I arrived at a hostel directly across the village church. Exhausted, I showered, washed clothes, and set out the next day’s garb. That evening, a wind and thunderstorm rolled through similar to the one during my stay in Larrasoaña. All clothes had to be taken off the line; but, fortunately, I could sit on the second floor covered open terrace and take in the seasonal show without getting wet. When it was over and I hung my clothes once again, it was a perfect prelude to a good night’s sleep. (I’ll add that blessings abound for this day and all the ones yet to come!)
I have visioned being on the Camino Francés for a year; and so to be here, taking steps that millions from all over the globe have laid before me…well it’s confirmation that holding on to your dreams, desires and (in my case) a calling deep within can manifest what you desire…and more!! Buen Camino to me and to my entire camino family!
City wall entrance to Cirauqui
“The abundance you desire to experience must first be an experience in your mind.” - Ernest Holmes
Iglesia de San Román, Cirauqui