DOWN…UP SOME MORE, THEN…DOWN…
Thursday, August 31 (Part 2)
Saint Jean Pied de Port, France to Roncesvalles, Spain
24.90km/15.47mi. (774.1km/484.53mi to Santiago de Compostela)
“Never limit your view of life by any past experience.” - Ernest Holmes
Approaching 1200m elevation
After climbing up to the treeless, windswept and chilly high plains, I thought I had reached the top and could now look forward to descending towards a good night’s sleep. Oh no. Looks are deceiving, in that we began entering a wooded area (primarily beech)…beautiful and rustic, while slowly climbing. I even stopped for a photo-op by a way post marker, beaming broadly thinking the hardest part of the day was over. Trickery!
In the Frontera
Since I track my steps and kilometers every day, I found it interesting that the higher the elevation, the slower my pace. Shouldn’t surprise me since I’d stop, take deep breaths, stretch my calves and find a rhythm to my walk that would carry me on up and up and up.
The largest beech tree grove in Europe.
The Frontera is where we cross into Spain at an innocuous point along the path: a cattle grid which you have to gingerly step on the metal bars to cross (no passport control here!). Welcome to the Province of Navarre.
Green leaves; mottled bark on beech trees; sometimes muddy path; and occasional patches of dead leaves so thick that you felt like you were walking on a cloud. The peace of each step took me back to why I was doing the Camino in the first place: letting thoughts, inspiration, “aha” moments appear in my consciousness while navigating the terrain in front of me.
“Today I walk in the pathway of inspiration. I know what to do in every situation. There is an inspiration within me which governs every act, every thought, with certainty, with conviction, and in peace.” - This Thing Called you, page 139
And as sometimes happens in life, you’ve got to watch for the hidden horizontal tree root which may just trip you up in the thicket and roll you down the hill.
Continuing on, the slow incline becomes a little steeper until you spot the Col de Lepoeder, the actual high point of this day’s trek. From here, you begin a rocky, sometimes slippery descent through one of the largest remaining beech woods in Europe.
At last, you spot Roncesvalles. Truly beautiful, appearing like a medieval dream in the forest…at only 950m / 3117’ in altitude. The population of about 30 services pilgrims who stay the night at an inn and hostal…the Colegiata. I truly welcomed the efficient and very gracious staff that welcome weary pilgrims from around the world.
My first glimpse of Roncesvalles as I exit the woods.
I had made it this far in life without ever staying in a hostel, so I think this one set the bar very high. After leaving my hiking shoes on a rack downstairs (a practice at all albergues/hostels), I found my bed and showered…which is the first thing one does upon getting your bed, as you’re liable to have hot water earlier than later. I felt like a new peregrino. I sat outside in the brilliant late afternoon sun, meditated, called Terry, and sipped a well-deserved glass of vino tinto.
Shoe racks at every hostel is the norm.
That night, after spreading out my silk sleeping bad liner to scoot into, I laid out my clothes for tomorrow’s hike. I looked at my backpack with the scallop shell tied on the back and…well, I teared up at the full realization of the vision I’ve had since late last September. Every morning as I began my training power walks, I literally saw myself here, on the Camino and in hostels with others.
“A state of expectancy is a great asset; a state of uncertainty - one moment thinking ‘perhaps’ and the next moment thinking ‘I don’t know’ - will never get desired results.” - Ernest Holmes
I looked around at the beautiful expansive room with all the beds, saw others arriving, finding their beds and showering, then washing what they wore and hanging it to dry outside in the sun. I am one with everyone I see.
This is the Camino. This is my community. For whatever inspired each person to do this crazy yet impactful and very strenuous walk, we are here and we are united in purpose.
Relax and sleep tonight (brought my earplugs to block out the snoring) because it starts all over again early mañana. Let the aches and pains melt away and drift off to sleep. This is pretty cool.
“I surrender all fear, all doubt. I let go of all uncertainty. I know there is no confusion, no lack of confidence. I know that what is mine will claim me, know me, rush to me. I accept the gift of Life for myself and for everyone else.” - This Thing Called You, page 57
